I tackled a few more jobs this week. First was lubing up the window runners with silicone spray in the hope that it would fix the issues but unfortunately it wasn’t that easy, so I left them alone for now. Next I tested out the central locking. The factory central locking has a pneumatic system to move the passenger side lock when the driver side is opened. This wasn’t working, so I made the decision to pull it out and replace it with a remote locking kit with electric motors for the locks. A bit of a browse on Ebay and found a kit for $110 delivered which included two remote fobs with flip out key blanks for the Audi, and an extra motor and button which can be used to remotely open the boot. I only have one key at the moment so the kit will also solve that problem.
I also pulled out some speaker wiring from the rear speakers – I’ll put in new wires if I replace them – and pulled out a couple of other non-factory wires which didn’t go to anything. That left all this!
I spoke to a local bodyshop and rust specialist who agreed to come and look at my car one evening, so I decided to tackle a task that was somewhat scary – removing the rear windows to get a proper look at those rust holes. This took quite some time with some very careful probing and levering with a screwdriver and several plastic trim removal tools. Getting the metal trims off was easy. Persuading the rubber seal and window out wasn’t and it was scary how much the glass was bending and flexing. But after a lot of gentle persuasion, levering, cursing and sweating I got the first window out safely.
If anything, the second was even worse to do. It definitely took more persuasion and I was really worried about the rust in the corner – the window seal did not want to come off at that end. But after even more sweating, it eventually worked loose. Phew!
That was not fun! And I’m not looking forward to getting them back in either.
So the rust:
A little tip: when using the drill with a wire brush attachment and holding a work light don’t accidentally rest the work light against your hand or you will have an imprint of said light on your palm. Ouch.
Based on what the rust guy said, I had a few more jobs to do.
First, remove the boot plastic trims
Followed by the headlining. I was worried about doing this but it was actually quite easy to remove.
The sunroof drains need some attention. And there are interesting holes hacked in the C pillars, and plates riveted and welded on. I got a bit more history of the car from the very helpful members of the VASK forum. It had a rear end shunt at one point and was repaired, and one of the previous owners was told it has had a new roof fitted in its life, but that’s all he knew.
He had issues with the sunroof leaking, and I assume that’s why the holes are in the C pillars from the drain tubes being replaced. At least all of the holes cut in the metalwork will be out of sight once the trims are re-fitted!
This sticky backed foam is going to take some time to remove
New bonnet mascot
It’s going pretty well I think. The quote for the repairs was very reasonable, and most of the bits that need to be removed are now off the car. The C pillar trims are a bit of a problem because they go under the rear window rubbers, and I don’t want to remove that window unless I have to, don’t want to risk breaking it. The windscreen will have to come out for the rust repairs and there are a few more little bits to come off, then lots of cleanup to remove glue and rubber from the metal.
I still grin like an idiot every time I open the garage and remember I own an Ur quattro.
Follow the full Project Rusty build here.
My build thread is on our forums here.